Comparing HS Codes for Cotton vs Synthetic Fabrics

The six-digit HS code declared on your commercial invoice is not just a formality, it directly determines the duty rate applied, eligibility for preferential trade agreements, and likelihood of customs inspection. In the US tariff schedule, a single-digit error between Chapter 52 (cotton) and Chapter 54 (synthetic filaments) can shift the duty rate by several percentage points, significantly impacting landed cost.

This article explains how to accurately classify cotton versus synthetic fabrics using the Harmonized System, covering structural differences in chapters 52, 54, and 55, weight and finish thresholds, origin rules under agreements like USMCA and CPTPP, and penalty risks for misdeclaration. Readers will learn practical steps to avoid costly errors in HS code assignment for woven and knitted textiles.

Why HS Code Accuracy Determines Your Landed Cost

The six-digit HS code you declare on the commercial invoice directly sets the most-favoured-nation duty rate, determines whether a free trade agreement preference applies, and flags the shipment for targeted customs exams. In the US schedule, a shift between Chapter 52 and Chapter 54 can change the general duty rate by several percentage points for fabric of the same weight. Global fibre output rose to 132 million tonnes in 2024, up from 125 million tonnes in 2023, according to Textile Exchange (Materials Market Report 2025), amplifying the volume of transactions where misclassification risk compounds.

Duty Rate Variance Between Chapters 52 and 54

The size of the gap depends on the market. In the EU, the third-country duty is 8 percent both for printed plain-weave cotton under 5208 51 and for woven fabric of high-tenacity filament yarn under 5407 10, so the chapter choice does not change the rate in these examples. In the US Harmonized Tariff Schedule, general rates differ: unbleached plain-weave cotton of 5208.11 carries 7 to 10.5 percent, while dyed textured polyester filament fabric of 5407.52.20 carries 14.9 percent. Canada's Customs Tariff also sets rates line by line; unbleached plain-weave cotton over 100 g/m² of 5208.12.00, for example, is free of MFN duty in the CBSA 2026 Customs Tariff. If an importer declares a code with a lower rate than the correct one, customs can recover the difference, usually with interest, and may add penalties.

Preferential Tariff Eligibility Rules

Preferential tariff eligibility depends on the HS code, because the code selects the product-specific rule of origin in each trade agreement. Under the CPTPP, the predominant rule for textiles is yarn-forward, softened by a short-supply list of yarns and fabrics that may be sourced outside the region, according to New Zealand Customs' CPTPP information guide. A misclassified code can invalidate the origin claim, in which case customs can recover duty at the MFN rate.

Penalty Exposure for Misclassification

Penalty exposure for misclassification escalates with culpability. In the United States, 19 U.S.C. 1592 caps negligence penalties at the lesser of the domestic value of the goods or two times the lost duties (20 percent of dutiable value if no duty was lost), gross negligence at the lesser of domestic value or four times the lost duties (40 percent if no duty was lost), and fraud at the domestic value. A valid prior disclosure under 19 CFR 162.74 reduces a negligent or grossly negligent violation to interest on the unpaid duties. The EU has no uniform fine; UCC Article 42 requires each Member State to set penalties that are effective, proportionate and dissuasive, so levels vary by country. Canada applies penalties through the CBSA's Administrative Monetary Penalty System (AMPS), with amounts set for each type of contravention. Voluntary disclosure can reduce penalties, but the reduction is not uniform across jurisdictions.

Core Structural Differences Between Cotton and Synthetic HS Chapters

The Harmonized System separates cotton into Chapter 52 and man-made fibers across Chapters 54 and 55 based on fiber morphology. Chapter 52 covers cotton fibre, yarn and woven fabrics only. Chapter 54 captures synthetic and artificial filament yarns and the fabrics made directly from them. Chapter 55 addresses synthetic and artificial staple fibers and their downstream fabrics. Global cotton production decreased slightly to 24.5 million tonnes, a 19% share of fibre output in 2024, according to Textile Exchange (Materials Market Report 2025).

Chapter 52 Cotton Raw to Woven Fabric Flow

Chapter 52 cotton raw to woven fabric flow progresses logically from heading 5201 for raw cotton through 5204 for cotton sewing thread to 5208 through 5212 for woven fabrics. Heading 5205 covers cotton yarn with 85% or more cotton, not for retail sale, single or multiple. Heading 5206 covers yarn with less than 85% cotton. Heading 5207 covers cotton yarn put up for retail sale. The woven fabric headings 5208 to 5212 distinguish by cotton content (85 percent or more, or less than 85 percent), by weight per square meter, by weave and by finish (unbleached, bleached, dyed, of yarns of different colours, or printed).

Chapter 54 Synthetic Filament Yarn and Fabric Flow

Chapter 54 synthetic filament yarn and fabric flow begins at heading 5401 for sewing thread of man-made filaments, moves through 5402 to 5406 for filament yarns, monofilament and strip, and culminates in 5407 and 5408 for woven fabrics of synthetic and artificial filament yarn respectively. Subheading 5407.10 covers fabrics from high-tenacity yarn of nylon, other polyamides or polyesters. Subheading 5407.20 covers fabrics from strip or the like. Subheading 5407.30 covers fabrics specified in Note 9 to Section XI. The remaining subheadings split by fiber and then by finish: 5407.41 to 5407.44 for 85 percent or more nylon or other polyamide filaments (5407.42 is the dyed version), 5407.51 to 5407.54 for 85 percent or more textured polyester filaments, 5407.61 and 5407.69 for other fabrics of 85 percent or more polyester filaments, 5407.71 to 5407.74 for other synthetic filaments, 5407.81 to 5407.84 for fabrics of less than 85 percent synthetic filaments mixed mainly or solely with cotton, and 5407.91 to 5407.94 for other woven fabrics.

Chapter 55 Synthetic Staple Fiber Fabric Flow

Chapter 55 synthetic staple fiber fabric flow mirrors the cotton structure but for man-made staple fibers. Heading 5501 covers synthetic filament tow, 5502 covers artificial filament tow, and 5503 to 5507 cover staple fibers by polymer and processing stage. Yarn headings 5508 to 5511 parallel cotton yarn headings. Woven fabric headings 5512 to 5516 separate by fiber composition: 5512 covers woven fabrics with 85% or more synthetic staple fibres such as polyester, acrylic or other. Heading 5513 covers fabrics under 85% mixed mainly with cotton up to 170 g/m2. Heading 5514 covers fabrics over 170 g/m2. Headings 5515 and 5516 cover other synthetic and artificial staple fabrics respectively.

Decoding the Six-Digit Level for Woven Cotton Fabrics

Finding the correct HS code for woven cotton fabric requires checking cotton content, weight, weave and finish across headings 5208 through 5212. Heading 5208 covers fabrics containing 85 percent or more cotton by weight and weighing not more than 200 g/m2, and 5209 covers the same fabrics weighing more than 200 g/m2. Heading 5210 covers fabrics containing less than 85 percent cotton, mixed mainly or solely with man-made fibres, weighing not more than 200 g/m2, while 5211 covers the same mixed composition weighing more than 200 g/m2. Heading 5212 covers other woven fabrics of cotton, such as those mixed mainly with wool or flax. On the supply side, USDA expects world cotton production to fall 4% to 117.3 million bales in 2026/27 according to USDA ERS (outlook updated September 2026).

Unbleached Versus Bleached Versus Dyed Distinctions

Unbleached fabric retains natural impurities and falls in the 5208.1x group, such as 5208.11 for unbleached plain weave weighing not more than 100 g/m2. Bleached fabric undergoes chemical whitening and moves to the 5208.2x group, such as 5208.21 for bleached plain weave of the same weight. Dyed fabric receives uniform color across the entire piece and falls in 5208.3x, such as 5208.31 for dyed plain weave. Fabrics of yarns of different colours (yarn-dyed fabrics, where threads are coloured before weaving) use 5208.4x, and printed fabrics use 5208.5x. Headings 5209, 5210 and 5211 follow the same order of finishes. Each finish stage is a distinct six-digit code that customs officers can check against commercial invoices and fabric samples.

Weight Thresholds at 100 g/m2 and 200 g/m2

The 200 g/m2 threshold is the heading split: a fabric of 85 percent or more cotton weighing 195 g/m2 stays in 5208, while the same fabric at 205 g/m2 moves to 5209, regardless of identical weave and finish. The same 200 g/m2 line separates 5210 from 5211 for fabrics of less than 85 percent cotton mixed mainly or solely with man-made fibres. The 100 g/m2 figure is only a subheading split for plain weaves inside heading 5208, for example 5208.11 (not more than 100 g/m2) versus 5208.12 (more than 100 g/m2) for unbleached plain weave. Textile laboratories normally weigh specimens after conditioning them in the ISO 139 standard atmosphere of 20 degrees Celsius and 65 percent relative humidity. Exporters should request test reports from accredited textile testing houses to defend borderline weights during customs examination.

Plain Weave Twill and Sateen Classification Rules

Plain weave fabrics, where each weft thread passes alternately over and under the warp threads, take the first position in each finish group, such as 5208.11 for unbleached plain weave not more than 100 g/m2 and 5208.12 for unbleached plain weave over 100 g/m2. Unbleached three-thread or four-thread twill, including cross twill, uses 5208.13. Sateen and satin weaves, dobby and jacquard figured fabrics and other weaves have no separate six-digit code in heading 5208; they fall under other fabrics, such as 5208.19 for unbleached goods, and national tariffs may split them further (the US HTS, for example, has a separate line for satin or twill weaves at 5208.19.20). In heading 5209, yarn-dyed denim has its own subheading, 5209.42.

Decoding the Six-Digit Level for Woven Synthetic Filament Fabrics

Classifying woven polyester or nylon filament fabric centers on headings 5407 and 5408, where yarn type, polymer, blend and finish decide the six-digit code. Heading 5407 covers woven fabrics of synthetic filament yarn while 5408 covers artificial filament yarn such as viscose rayon. Global polyester production reached 78 million tonnes in 2024 representing a 59 percent share of fibre output according to Textile Exchange (Materials Market Report 2025). Woven fabrics of polyester filament fall mainly in 5407.51 to 5407.54 (textured) and 5407.61 or 5407.69 (other), or in 5407.10 when woven from high-tenacity yarn.

High Tenacity Yarn Versus Textured Yarn Splits

Section XI Note 6 defines high-tenacity yarn by tenacity in centinewtons per tex: more than 60 cN/tex for single yarn of nylon, other polyamides or polyesters, and more than 53 cN/tex for multiple (folded) or cabled yarn of those polymers. Woven fabrics of such yarn go to 5407.10 whatever their finish. Textured yarn that undergoes false-twist or air-jet processing to create bulk and stretch moves to separate subheadings, such as 5407.52 for dyed fabrics of 85 percent or more textured polyester filaments. Laboratories test tenacity and yarn construction to verify the declared yarn type against the commercial description.

Monofilament Versus Multifilament Thresholds

Synthetic monofilament of 67 decitex or more, with no cross-sectional dimension over 1 mm, is classified as a material in heading 5404, together with synthetic strip of an apparent width not exceeding 5 mm. Monofilament below 67 decitex counts as filament yarn of heading 5402. Woven fabrics made from 5404 materials are still classified in heading 5407, which expressly includes them, and fabrics woven from strip go to 5407.20. Fabrics woven from multifilament yarn fall in the fiber and finish subheadings 5407.41 to 5407.94, or in 5407.10 if the yarn is high tenacity. Technical data sheets listing decitex, filament count and polymer support the declared classification.

Coated Covered or Laminated Fabric Codes

Coated fabrics where the base textile is covered with a polymer layer such as polyurethane or PVC move to heading 5903, whatever their weight per square meter, when the coating can be seen with the naked eye. Fabrics whose coating is not visible to the naked eye remain in their base chapter, for example under heading 5407. Fabrics impregnated, coated, covered or laminated with rubber classify under 5906 as rubberized textile fabrics, and fabrics laminated with plastics go to 5903. Heading 5907 is a residual heading for textile fabrics otherwise impregnated, coated or covered. Chapter 59 Note 2 sets further tests: products that cannot be bent by hand around a 7 mm cylinder at 15 to 30 degrees Celsius without fracturing, and fabrics completely embedded in plastics or visibly coated on both sides, usually fall in Chapter 39. Importers should obtain cross-section analysis reports from textile labs when coating visibility is uncertain to avoid reclassification penalties.

Classifying Synthetic Staple Fiber Fabrics Under Chapter 55

Synthetic staple fiber fabrics fall under Chapter 55 headings 5512 through 5516 based on the fiber composition and blend ratios. Heading 5512 covers woven fabrics containing 85 percent or more by weight of synthetic staple fibers. Heading 5513 applies to woven fabrics of synthetic staple fibers containing less than 85 percent by weight mixed mainly or solely with cotton. Heading 5514 covers the same blends but with a weight exceeding 170 grams per square meter. Heading 5515 covers other woven fabrics of synthetic staple fibers, including those mixed mainly or solely with wool or fine animal hair, with viscose or with man-made filaments. Heading 5516 covers woven fabrics of artificial staple fibers. Within 5513 and 5514, subheadings then distinguish unbleached or bleached, dyed, yarn-dyed and printed constructions.

85 Percent Pure Synthetic Staple Benchmark

The 85 percent pure synthetic staple benchmark determines whether a fabric classifies under heading 5512 or moves to the mixed fabric headings 5513 through 5515. A woven fabric containing 85 percent or more polyester staple fiber by weight enters heading 5512 regardless of the remaining fiber content. If the synthetic staple content drops below 85 percent the classifier must identify the secondary fiber to select the correct heading. Cotton as the secondary fiber directs the code to heading 5513 or 5514 depending on fabric weight. Wool or fine animal hair as the secondary fiber directs the code to heading 5515. Laboratory fiber composition analysis using ISO 1833 test methods provides the definitive weight percentages required for customs declaration.

Mixed Mainly with Cotton Versus Wool Rules

Mixed mainly with cotton versus wool rules separate heading 5513 and 5514 from heading 5515 based on the identity of the predominant non-synthetic fiber. The term mixed mainly or solely with cotton means that, of the fibers other than the synthetic staple, cotton is the largest by weight. The term mixed mainly or solely with wool means wool or fine animal hair is the largest of those other fibers. When a fabric contains synthetic staple cotton and wool the classifier ranks the non-synthetic fibers by weight. The highest ranking non-synthetic fiber dictates the heading. A fabric with 60 percent polyester staple 25 percent cotton and 15 percent wool classifies under heading 5513 or 5514 because cotton exceeds wool. Accurate fiber identification prevents misclassification penalties during customs verification.

Printed Dyed and Yarn-Dyed Subheading Logic

Printed, dyed and yarn-dyed subheading logic follows a consistent pattern in headings 5513 and 5514, where the first digit after the heading identifies the finish. In 5513, 5513.1x designates unbleached or bleached fabric, 5513.2x dyed fabric, 5513.3x fabric of yarns of different colours (yarn-dyed), and 5513.4x printed fabric, and heading 5514 follows the same order. Heading 5512 is organised differently: it splits first by fiber (polyester, acrylic or modacrylic, other) and then only into unbleached or bleached versus other. For example 5513.21 represents dyed plain weave polyester staple fabric not over 170 grams per square meter mixed mainly with cotton while 5513.31 represents the yarn-dyed equivalent. Importers must match the commercial invoice description to the specific subheading to avoid customs queries.

Knitted Fabric Classification Differences by Fiber Type

Knitted and crocheted fabrics of any fiber are classified in Chapter 60, and the heading depends on construction, width and elastomeric content rather than on fiber. Heading 6001 covers pile fabrics, including long pile and terry fabrics. Fabrics not exceeding 30 cm wide go to 6002 (with 5 percent or more by weight of elastomeric yarn or rubber thread) or 6003 (other). Fabrics over 30 cm wide with 5 percent or more elastomeric yarn or rubber thread go to 6004. Warp knit fabrics not covered by 6001 to 6004 go to 6005, and all other knitted fabrics go to 6006. Fiber matters at subheading level: in 6006, for example, 6006.21 to 6006.24 cover cotton and 6006.31 to 6006.34 cover synthetic fibers, while in 6005 cotton is 6005.21 to 6005.24 and synthetic fibers 6005.35 to 6005.39. On the raw material side, USDA forecasts global cotton mill use to rise 1.5% to 122.9 million bales in 2026/27 according to USDA ERS.

Warp Knit Versus Weft Knit Code Paths

Warp knit versus weft knit code paths separate only after pile, width and elastomeric content have been checked. A warp knit fabric goes to heading 6005 only if it is not a pile fabric (6001), not 30 cm wide or less (6002 or 6003) and not over 30 cm wide with 5 percent or more elastomeric yarn or rubber thread (6004). A weft knit fabric that passes the same tests goes to heading 6006. The same sequence applies to cotton and synthetic knits, so a warp knit cotton fabric falls in 6005.21 to 6005.24, not in 6006. Technical specifications identifying the knit structure, width and composition determine the correct code path.

Elastomeric Yarn Content Thresholds

The elastomeric threshold in Chapter 60 is 5 percent by weight of elastomeric yarn or rubber thread, and it applies to knitted fabrics of any fiber. For fabrics over 30 cm wide, reaching 5 percent sends the fabric to heading 6004; below 5 percent it goes to 6005 if warp knit or 6006 if weft knit. For fabrics 30 cm wide or less, the same threshold separates 6002 from 6003. Spandex, elastane and Lycra are common elastomeric fibers triggering this rule. A wide weft knit fabric with 4.5 percent spandex by weight enters heading 6006 while an identical fabric with 5.5 percent spandex enters heading 6004. Mill certificates stating elastomeric yarn percentage support the declared classification during customs examination.

Pile and Terry Fabric Special Provisions

Knitted pile fabrics, including long pile and terry fabrics, have their own heading, 6001, whatever their width or elastomeric content. Within it, 6001.10 covers long pile fabrics, 6001.21 to 6001.29 cover looped pile fabrics (6001.21 of cotton, 6001.22 of man-made fibers), and 6001.91 to 6001.99 cover other pile fabrics by fiber. Knitted pile fabrics that are impregnated, coated, covered or laminated also remain in 6001, under Chapter 60 Note 1(c). Woven pile and terry fabrics are not in Chapter 60; they fall in Chapter 58. Importers should provide construction details to customs brokers for accurate subheading assignment.

Blended Fabric Rules: The Predominant Fiber Test

Blended woven fabrics are not classified by an essential-character judgement under General Interpretative Rule 3(b). Section XI Note 2(A) decides instead: goods of Chapters 50 to 55 made of a mixture of textile materials are classified as if consisting wholly of the one material that predominates by weight over each other single textile material. The chapter is chosen first and then the heading within it, and when Chapters 54 and 55 are both involved with another chapter they are treated as a single chapter. A woven fabric of fifty one percent cotton and forty nine percent polyester therefore classifies as cotton, but because it contains less than 85 percent cotton and is mixed mainly with man-made fibers it goes to heading 5210 (not more than 200 g/m2) or 5211 (more than 200 g/m2), not to 5208 or 5209. If polyester staple reaches fifty one percent and the rest is cotton, the fabric moves to 5513 or 5514; with polyester filament it moves to 5407.81 to 5407.84. Our customs tariff classification checklist for polyester blends covers these blend checks in more detail.

Weight-Based Predominance Determination

Weight-based predominance does not require any fiber to exceed fifty percent; the deciding material only has to outweigh each other single textile material, and Section XI Note 2(B) requires the chapter to be chosen before the heading. For an exact fifty fifty cotton and polyester staple blend, no material predominates, so the fabric goes to the heading that occurs last in numerical order among those that equally merit consideration: 5513 or 5514 rather than 5210 or 5211. Importers must retain weight tickets from the spinning mill and finished fabric inspection reports showing the exact percentage of each component to defend the declared classification.

Chapter 52 Versus 55 Versus 54 Priority Order

Chapter 52 versus 55 versus 54 priority order only matters when no single textile material predominates by weight. Cotton fabrics occupy headings 5208 to 5212, synthetic filament fabrics heading 5407 and synthetic staple fiber fabrics headings 5512 to 5515. For a true fifty fifty blend of cotton and polyester staple, heading 5513 or 5514 occurs after 5210 or 5211, so the fabric classifies in Chapter 55. For a fifty fifty blend of cotton and polyester filament, heading 5407 also occurs after 5210 and 5211, so the fabric classifies in 5407.81 to 5407.84. This means the physical form of the synthetic fiber changes the chapter even when the blend ratio is identical.

Documentation Needed to Support Blend Claims

Documentation needed to support blend claims includes a mill test certificate stating the fiber composition by weight percentage a finished fabric analysis report from an ISO/IEC 17025 accredited laboratory and the commercial invoice reflecting the same composition details. Customs brokers often request the yarn count and construction specification sheet to confirm the fabric structure matches the declared heading. Inconsistent data between the mill certificate and the laboratory report can prompt customs queries and may lead to reclassification at a higher duty rate. Maintaining a digital folder with these documents linked to each purchase order accelerates clearance.

Tariff Rate Comparison: Cotton vs Synthetic in Major Markets

Applied most favored nation rates for cotton and synthetic fabrics differ much more in the US Harmonized Tariff Schedule than in the EU's TARIC database. In the US schedule, many synthetic filament and staple fabric lines in 5407 and 5513 carry general rates of 12 to 14.9 percent, while many cotton lines in 5208 and 5209 sit between 6.5 and 10.5 percent. In the EU, the third-country duty on the cotton, polyester filament and polyester staple lines checked for this article is 8 percent. Importers calculating landed cost must apply the rate of the specific national tariff line because rates vary within each heading by weight, construction and finish.

US HTS Chapter 52 Versus 54/55 Rate Gaps

The US Harmonized Tariff Schedule (Revision 20, 2026) shows the gap clearly. Unbleached plain-weave cotton of 5208.11, weighing not more than 100 g/m2, carries a general rate of 7 percent (yarn number 42 or lower), 9 percent (numbers 43 to 68) or 10.5 percent (number 69 or higher), with a free line only for fabric suitable for making typewriter ribbon. Comparable unbleached plain-weave polyester staple fabric mixed mainly with cotton under 5513.11 carries 14.9 percent, and dyed woven fabric of textured polyester filament under 5407.52.20 also carries 14.9 percent. Subheading 5407.42 covers dyed fabric of nylon or other polyamide filaments, not polyester, and carries 14.9 percent as well. These are general (column 1) rates before any additional duties under Chapter 99, such as Section 301 measures, so check current entry requirements before quoting a landed cost.

EU TARIC Ad Valorem Differences by Fabric Type

The EU's Common Customs Tariff is flatter. In TARIC, consulted in October 2026 for imports from a non-preferential origin, the third-country duty is 8 percent for unbleached plain-weave cotton under 5208 11 90, printed plain-weave cotton under 5208 51 00, polyester staple fabric under 5512 11 00 and 5513 11, dyed nylon filament fabric under 5407 42 00 and dyed textured polyester filament fabric under 5407 52 00. For these fabrics the chapter choice does not change the EU duty itself, but it still decides preference eligibility under EU trade agreements and the scope of any trade-defence measures. Importers should confirm the full ten-digit TARIC code in the European Commission's online database before shipping.

Impact of Anti-Dumping Duties on Specific Synthetics

Anti-dumping and countervailing duties add a further layer of cost for specific products from specific countries, and they can apply to synthetic fibers, yarns or fabrics. Their coverage is defined by the written scope of each order or regulation, not by the HS code alone, although the tariff codes listed in an order help importers identify likely coverage. Before quoting a landed cost, check the US Department of Commerce's AD/CVD orders and the EU Official Journal for any measure covering your fabric and its origin, and monitor scope changes that could extend coverage to additional fabric constructions.

Conclusion

Accurate HS code assignment for cotton and synthetic fabrics hinges on three verifiable factors: the fiber chapter (52 versus 54 or 55, decided by the predominating fiber under Section XI Note 2), the weight thresholds (200 g/m² between 5208 and 5209 or between 5210 and 5211, 100 g/m² inside 5208 for plain weaves, and 170 g/m² between 5513 and 5514), and the weave, finish and yarn type at the six-digit level. A chapter error can change the US general duty rate by several percentage points, for example from 7 to 10.5 percent on unbleached plain-weave cotton of 5208.11 to 14.9 percent on comparable polyester staple fabric of 5513.11. It can also invalidate a USMCA or CPTPP yarn-forward origin claim and expose the importer to penalties under 19 U.S.C. 1592 of up to two times the lost duties for negligence. Document the composition test, the fabric weight and the weave construction on the commercial invoice so customs sees the same code you declared.

Run every new fabric style through a classification worksheet that maps weight, finish, construction and fiber identity to the correct heading before the first shipment, and if a past entry used the wrong code, consider a prior disclosure in the US or the voluntary correction procedure of the importing country. Customs shipment data, such as the records searchable by HS code on EximDataX, can show which codes other shippers declare for comparable fabrics, but confirm your own code against the official tariff or an advance ruling. Start your next classification check at Global Trade Plaza Blog.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the HS code for 100% cotton woven fabric?

Woven fabric of 100% cotton falls under heading 5208 if it weighs not more than 200 g/m² and under 5209 if it weighs more than 200 g/m², according to the HS 2022 headings as reproduced in the US HTS. Both headings cover fabrics containing 85% or more cotton by weight. Within 5208, plain weaves are split again at 100 g/m², for example 5208.11 and 5208.12 for unbleached plain weave. Headings 5210 to 5212 are for fabrics with less than 85% cotton, not for heavier pure cotton.

What is the HS code for 100% polyester woven fabric?

Woven fabric of 100% polyester filament falls in heading 5407. Textured polyester filament fabrics use 5407.51 to 5407.54, other fabrics of 85% or more polyester filaments use 5407.61 or 5407.69, and fabrics of high-tenacity polyester yarn use 5407.10. Subheading 5407.20 is for fabrics woven from strip, not for polyester in general. If the fabric is woven from polyester staple fiber, it moves to heading 5512, where 5512.11 and 5512.19 cover fabrics of 85% or more polyester staple.

How do I classify cotton polyester blended fabric?

Under Section XI Note 2, a blend is classified as if it consisted wholly of the fiber that predominates by weight over each other single fiber. A cotton-predominant blend with less than 85% cotton, mixed mainly with polyester, goes to 5210 (not more than 200 g/m²) or 5211 (more than 200 g/m²). A blend where polyester staple predominates, mixed mainly with cotton, goes to 5513 (not more than 170 g/m²) or 5514. Where polyester filament predominates it goes to 5407.81 to 5407.84. GIR 3(b) essential character is not used for these fabrics.

What is the difference between HS 5208 and 5209?

The split is fabric weight at 200 g/m². Both headings cover woven fabrics containing 85% or more cotton by weight: 5208 covers those weighing not more than 200 g/m² and 5209 those weighing more than 200 g/m². The 100 g/m² figure is only a subheading split inside 5208 for plain weaves, such as 5208.11 versus 5208.12. Identical weave and finish can therefore change heading when the measured weight crosses 200 g/m².

What is the HS code for knitted cotton fabric?

Knitted cotton fabric is classified in Chapter 60, but not always in 6006. Pile and terry knits go to 6001, fabrics 30 cm wide or less go to 6002 or 6003, and fabrics over 30 cm wide with 5% or more elastomeric yarn or rubber thread go to 6004. Remaining warp knits go to 6005.21 to 6005.24 and remaining weft knits to 6006.21 to 6006.24. Within these groups the subheadings split by finish (unbleached or bleached, dyed, yarn-dyed, printed), not by weight.

What is the HS code for knitted polyester fabric?

Knitted polyester fabric follows the same Chapter 60 sequence as cotton. Pile fabrics go to 6001 (for example 6001.22 for looped pile of man-made fibers), fabrics up to 30 cm wide to 6002 or 6003, and fabrics over 30 cm wide with 5% or more elastomeric yarn or rubber thread to 6004. Other warp knits go to 6005.35 to 6005.39 and other weft knits to 6006.31 to 6006.34. Filament or staple yarn does not change the Chapter 60 heading; width, construction and elastomeric content do.

How does fabric weight affect HS classification?

For cotton, 200 g/m² separates 5208 from 5209 and 5210 from 5211, while 100 g/m² only splits plain-weave subheadings inside 5208. For synthetic staple fabrics of less than 85% synthetic fiber mixed mainly with cotton, 170 g/m² separates 5513 from 5514. Synthetic filament fabrics of heading 5407 have no weight split at the six-digit level. Laboratories normally weigh fabric after conditioning it in the ISO 139 standard atmosphere of 20°C and 65% relative humidity, which helps a declared weight hold up under examination.

What HS code applies to coated synthetic fabric?

Synthetic fabric coated, covered or laminated with plastics goes to heading 5903 whatever its weight per square meter, provided the coating can be seen with the naked eye. If the coating is not visible, the fabric stays in its base heading, such as 5407 or 5512 to 5516. Fabrics coated or laminated with rubber go to 5906, and 5907 is the residual heading for other coated fabrics. Under Chapter 59 Note 2, stiff products that fracture when bent by hand around a 7 mm cylinder usually fall in Chapter 39.

Are there different HS codes for dyed versus printed fabric?

Yes. Within each cotton woven heading, the finish sets the first subheading digit. In 5208, unbleached fabric is 5208.1x, bleached 5208.2x, dyed 5208.3x (for example 5208.31), fabric of yarns of different colours (yarn-dyed) 5208.4x, and printed 5208.5x (for example 5208.51). Synthetic staple headings follow a similar pattern: in 5513, dyed is 5513.2x, yarn-dyed 5513.3x and printed 5513.4x. Customs can check the declared finish against commercial invoices and physical samples.

What is the HS code for synthetic staple fiber fabric?

Woven fabric of synthetic staple fiber falls under headings 5512 to 5515, and fabric of artificial staple fiber such as viscose under 5516. Heading 5512 covers fabrics with 85% or more synthetic staple fibers. Heading 5513 covers fabrics with less than 85% synthetic staple, mixed mainly or solely with cotton, weighing not more than 170 g/m², and 5514 the same blends over 170 g/m². Heading 5515 covers other synthetic staple fabrics, including those mixed mainly with wool, viscose or man-made filaments.

How do I classify fabric with elastane content?

In Chapter 60, elastane can decide the heading: knitted fabrics containing 5% or more by weight of elastomeric yarn or rubber thread go to 6004 if wider than 30 cm, or to 6002 if 30 cm wide or less. Below 5%, they go to 6003, 6005 or 6006 depending on width and construction. In woven fabrics, elastane is a synthetic filament that simply counts in the weight comparison under Section XI Note 2, so a woven fabric of 97% cotton and 3% elastane remains in 5208 or 5209.

Where can I verify an HS code officially?

Verify codes in the importing country's official tariff: the USITC Harmonized Tariff Schedule for the United States, the EU TARIC database for the European Union, or the CBSA Customs Tariff for Canada. The World Customs Organization (WCO) maintains the international six-digit HS nomenclature that these tariffs share. For binding certainty, request an advance ruling from the destination customs administration, such as a CBP ruling in the US or a Binding Tariff Information decision in the EU, before shipping.